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Growing Climbing Roses | Where Roses Grow Wild

Growing Climbing Roses

“Who Else Wants to Know The Secrets To Growing Climbing Roses?”

Growing Climbing roses, also known as pillars, ramblers, trailing roses, and ever blooming roses depending on where roses grow wild and how they grow are not considered true vines. They don’t grow their own support structures to hold onto surfaces.

Growing climbing roses add a dimension to your garden that no other rose bush can. It builds on the vertical, to lift your eyes, and develop your garden into a three dimensional space. They can be rigidly formal or allowed to meander: trained on an arbor or left of their own free will to grow up a dead tree.

No rose garden is truly complete without growing climbing roses to make your rose garden more complete. But they are the ideal ornament to grace any archway, fence or any other structure in and around any garden.

Growing Climbing Roses differ from Growing Ramblers in a few respects.

When growing climbing roses keep in mind that they will have five leaflets that make up the leaf, whereas a rambler normally has seven leaflets per leaf. Together with this, Climbing Roses generally have stems that are more rigid than rambling roses. Because climbing roses do not have the capabilities to hold onto structures like vines do, they need help from us. When you are ready to grow the roses remember that roses can loosely attach to a plant structure or wind it through the structure.

Growing Climbing Roses – Where Should They Grow?

Some types of structures you can grow climbing roses on are trellis’, arbors, fences, sheds, pillars, walls or almost any other large, solid structures. Climbing roses that are trained to grow laterally rather than vertically often produce more blooms. Vertically trained climbing roses will produce short spurs along their main stem or canes which will produce blooms.

Besides the way they grow, growing climbing roses is not unlike growing other types of rose plants. Climbing roses need about six to seven hours of direct unfiltered sunlight a day.

Even climbing roses that are said to do well in the part shade still need about four to five hours of direct sunlight a day.

Unlike vines which have tendrils or suckers to help them cling to a wall or other support, climbing roses must be trained upward by hand-fastening the willing canes to the vertical support.

Also, unlike vines which are comfortable snuggled tightly against a wall or other support, roses require air circulation all around the plant. Use vertical supports that are freestanding.

Position the trellis or frame at least three inches away from the surface of the wall, to permit air flow behind the climbing canes. This space also makes plant maintenance a little easier. Delay any pruning for two years or so to encourage the climber to establish it.

As each long cane reaches a crosspiece on the support, tie it carefully with strips of soft cloth or plastic. Wrap the tie around the supporting piece first, and then loop it over the rose cane, fastening it loosely so that the branch is not constricted. Tie to achieve a fan shape with the canes, because the more they are horizontal, the more blooms there will be.

Climbing roses are ideal for companion planting, something that is difficult with your average Tea Rose bush bed! Companion planting is a very important consideration for some gardeners. Not only can you grow other climbers such as clematis beside, and even with a climber but the base of the rose, often referred to as “the bare legs”, is ideal for lower growing perennials, especially if you time the blooms of the perennials to maximize during the middle, down time, of the climbing rose.

Climbing Roses that are from Hybrid Tea or Floribunda parentage rarely have the profuse flowering of their bush counterparts.

One big difference between climbing roses and other types of rose plants is that they require very little pruning. There is no need to prune the plant for the first two years. If climbing roses are pruned every year like other rose plants, the opposite will happen to the climbers; they will produce fewer blooms.

Owners can get away with pruning their climbing roses every three or four years. Even then, pruning consists of removing small canes and old or less vigorous canes at the base of the plant. Vigorous young canes are encouraged to grow and to become long and flexible. Owners will have an easier time training these canes through and onto structures.

Sufficient water is crucial to roses. They are thirsty plants and need a steady flow of moisture for peak performance. Well drained soil allows them to receive a lot of moisture, but prevents their roots from standing in soggy soil.

Climbers require about an inch of water a week either from rain or from a watering system. Those planted on very sandy soil or in the south may need even 2 inches of water a week. Water must penetrate 16 to 18 inches to reach the full depth of the roots of mature plants.

Because splashing water carries fungal disease spores up to the rose leaves, watering with a drip irrigation system laid under a layer of organic mulch is the best way to water. When hand watering, avoid wetting the leaves. Whatever the method, water rose bushes in the morning so the plants can dry off by evening when fungal diseases thrive.

Lastly, remember that many climbing roses will repeat with much greater frequency if given adequate water, fertilizer, and sunlight. When planning to grow climbing roses in your garden, take into consideration the height or length that these types of roses will grow to.

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