Transplanting Roses

MrRoseGarden answers:

Caused by the fungus Diplocarpon rosae, produces black spots with feathery or fibrous margins on the upper surfaces of leaves and stems. Small, black fruiting bodies often are present in spots on the upper sides of leaves. No fungal growth occurs on the undersides.

This fungus requires free water to reproduce and grow, so don’t allow leaves to remain wet for more than 7 hours. When hosing off aphids, do it in the morning or midday, so leaves have a chance to dry before evening. Provide good air circulation around plants. Remove fallen leaves and other infested material, and prune out infected stems during the dormant season.

Miniature roses are more susceptible than other types, although a few varieties are reliably resistant to all strains of black spot. Apply fungicides such as chlorothalonil or triforine as preventatives. Oils, including neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, and sulfur, or neem oil also has been shown to be effective in reducing black spot.

MrRoseGarden answers:

If you allow good airflow well on way to helping stop black spot.

Best method which won’t work as was given is chose plant less prone to it.

Have heard heavily diluted milk can help family member uses it but might be her planting methods that is her success.

As for bugs products i use my fingers to squash them you could have gloves on as i can see what is happening and not killing ladybugs.

But to spray with water with small quantity of dishwashing liquid can smother the bugs.

Or just soapy water not to much soap though

Only other thing pyrethium based spray would be ok also

MrRoseGarden answers:

Hi, Crystal
Stillwater here. Stay away from Hybrid teas because they are disease prone and suffer black spot horribly. Stick with the heirlooms, old roses, Hybrid musk, and English roses.

Here is one of my favorite rose breeders. They have a selection of roses that do great in large containers. Here is that page.

Http://www.davidaustinroses.com/american/Advanced.asp?PageId=2018

According to David Austin roses, any English rose is appropriate for a container.

Here is another fave of mine and they offer a variety of roses including English roses.

Http://www.heirloomroses.com/cgi/browse.cgi?page=item&cat=13&item=248

Hope this helps

MrRoseGarden answers:

Take heart!… Roses come back…. Just keep them watered, make sure the ground is draining and isn’t ‘soggy’, and feed them with a fertilizer of your choosing…. Even a rose that loses a LOT of leaves from blackspot, will still recover if watered and fed…. It just takes time…. And maybe a cool spell!…. Keep treating for the blackspot, too…. It really never goes completely away…. It’s part of the deal… You get roses, you deal with blackspot!….

Sprinkle some corn meal around your roses, then cover the ground with mulch to keep the moisture from drying out too fast, too…. The corn meal helps kill the blackspot fungus, too….

Once a month,during the growing season, mix a half cup of Epsom salts with a gallon of water and give it to your roses…. It contains magnesium and is a trace mineral that roses like…..

Keep them happy and they’ll settle in and start growing nicely

MrRoseGarden answers:

Instead of list plant names I will instead suggest looking into tropical and subtropical plants any plant that grows in rainforest’s are the type that you want

MrRoseGarden answers:

Cut the ends an a angle and keep them well watered!!!

MrRoseGarden answers:

Make sure that they get plenty of sunlight,air water.
Prune roses in early spring once the rose starts to show signs of new growth, usually in the form of tiny red buds swelling. These buds will become new branches.
Step2
Cut out any obviously dead or damaged branches first. Then cut out all but four or five healthy stems, each ideally about as thick as a pencil.
Step3
Cut the rose bush back by 1/3 to 1/2, depending on how tall you want it to be. Make these cuts right above an outward facing bud – that is, a red bud that’s on the outside of the rose bush. This directs the bud to grow up and out, leaving the center of the rose bush open for a prettier shape and better air circulation.
Step4
Fertilize roses regularly during the growing season. Roses are hungry plants, demanding lots of nutrients for best growth and flowering. Each rose grower has his or her own favorite method. One of the easiest is to buy a slow-release granular rose food and work it into the soil so it can feed the plant all season long. Otherwise, you’ll want to fertilize the rose with a liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks during the growing season (stop in early autumn) or according to package directions.
Step5
Water diligently. Roses need a steady source of water during the growing season, about 1 inch a week from rain or watering. In arid regions of the country, if you have several roses, consider installing a do-it-yourself drip irrigation system.
Summer Rose Care
Step1
Mulch. Roses need less weeding and watering and have fewer diseases if you mulch. Lay down 1 to 2 inches of organic mulch, such as wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings or other biodegradable material.
Step2
Deadhead. This simply means trimming spent roses off the shrub to encourage it to produce more. While some roses bloom only in one big flush in June, others are bred to keep producing off and on all season long.
Step3
Spray. If your rose becomes diseased or has an insect infestation, you may want to deal with it by spraying. (However, first try simply trimming off the diseased portion of the plant and giving the plant a good strong blast from a hose.) If you choose to spray, first identify the problem by trimming off the diseased part and taking it to a reliable garden center, where the staff can prescribe the correct pesticide or herbicide.
Fall and Winter Rose Care
Step1
Stop fertilizing roses in early autumn, at least one month before your region’s first annual frost date. Fertilizing too long into autumn encourages roses to produce tender new growth that will get nipped by cold.
Step2
Protect roses as needed in late autumn, after your region’s first hard freeze. In regions where temperatures don’t fall below 20 degrees F (USDA zone 9 and warmer), no additional winter protection is needed. In cooler regions where temperatures don’t fall below 10 degrees below zero (zones 6 to 8), a simple mounding of several inches of soil over the base of the rose should suffice. In cold-winter regions where temperatures get colder than 10 degrees below zero (zone 5 and colder), mound to about a foot about a month after your region’s last average frost date; additionally, two weeks later, the entire plant should be wrapped in burlap to protect the upper parts.

MrRoseGarden answers:

I saw this on a show one day about caring for roses. After a couple of days…trim off a couple of inches on stem…cut at angle…keep doing this until you have nothing left but the rose and no stem…those can be placed in a bowl of water so they float…oh yes…change water each time you trim them.

MrRoseGarden answers:

Hi, new to roses, huh? Well, don’t worry because roses are one of the easiest plants to learn on. It is true that you should prune your roses. Pruning your roses will promote more growth and more blooms.
General pruning: After your blooms are spent then use a sharp pair of pruners to cut the cane at an angle like this (/) just above a 5 leaf set that is pointing outward. You want a set that points outward because that is the direction a new cane and buds will form. Do this with all canes that have a spent bloom. This is done several times during the growing season to keep the bush blooming.

Autumn pruning: This occurs after the last frost or anytime after that until the last freeze. During this time your rose is dormant and you can cut back each cane to 2-3ft. I like to cut the cane at an angle just above a node that is pointing outward. (a node look like a slightly red, slightly pointy bump on the cane) A new cane will form from that node. Pruning like this during dormancy will produce a bigger and healthier bush for next season.

Good luck

MrRoseGarden answers:

Sure, put them in water but before you do, cut about half an inch from the bottom of the stem so that they can actually soak up the water.